19th January 2025
We slept soundly until around 7 am when the ship’s thrusters rattled our cabin as the MSC Preziosa manoeuvred into her berth in Hamburg. Emerging onto the balcony, the world was still shrouded in darkness. Frost coated the railings, and a thin layer of ice made the deck underfoot treacherous. The surrounding wharves seemed blanketed in snow, but on closer inspection, this was a thick frost which also transformed the distant trees into a picturesque winter scene.

Google informed us that the temperature had plunged to -6°C overnight and was now hovering at -2°C. Reluctant to leave the cosy warmth of our cabin, we lingered a little longer.

We disembarked by 10 am, suitably dressed in our warmest clothes and fortified by a hearty breakfast. A regular shuttle bus ferried passengers into Hamburg’s city centre. Despite the bright sunshine, the bitter cold persuaded us to take advantage of the service rather than as planned, endure a 45-minute freezing walk.

We were dropped off at Ballindamm, which runs alongside the Alsterfontäne, a small, scenic lake in the heart of the city. Having visited Hamburg many years ago, I was keen to explore familiar landmarks with Sue.

Our first stop was the nearby Hamburger Rathaus, an imposing neo-Renaissance town hall with a vaulted hall and opulent staterooms. Unfortunately, as it was Sunday, much of the city was closed. While the town hall was open, access was restricted to the main entrance due to a political meeting taking place. We snapped a few photos, regretted being unable to explore further, and moved on.

Next, I guided Sue to a site I knew would intrigue her: the St. Nikolai Memorial, marking the remains of a church destroyed by Allied bombing during Operation Gomorrah in the Second World War. All that remains today are a few sections of the wall, the basement, and the church tower. At 147 metres, it was once the tallest building in Hamburg. We took a lift to the viewing platform at 76 metres, which offered spectacular views over the city. However, the cold at ground level was nothing compared to the arctic chill up there, where a biting breeze and ice-covered railings quickly drove us back down.

Once we had warmed up a little, we explored the museum in the basement. Sue, whose uncle had been a navigator in a bomber squadron that attacked Hamburg, was eager to learn more about the events of that time. The museum focuses on the summer of 1943 when much of the city was destroyed, presenting a sombre and balanced reflection on the devastation through photographs, artefacts, and video exhibits.

Nearby, on the corner of Trostbrücke, we discovered 21 small metal plaques embedded in the pavement. These Stolpersteine (stumbling stones) commemorate former residents, most of whom were Jewish, listing their names, dates of birth, places of deportation (usually concentration camps), and dates of death. It was a poignant reminder of the atrocities committed during the Nazi era.

Our next stop was St. Peter’s Church, an impressive building from the outside, though we found its interior rather plain and functional. From there, we began a leisurely walk around the Alsterfontäne. Tour boats lined the lake’s southern shore, inviting passengers to take a trip through Hamburg’s waterways. We considered joining them but were ultimately deterred by the cold. In hindsight, we were glad we didn’t, as later, from our balcony aboard the Preziosa, we watched those very boats cruise past our ship.

The walk around the lake in the crisp winter sunshine was pleasant, though we were disappointed to find the famous fountain at its centre not in operation. Feeling the chill, we returned to the shuttle bus and headed back to the ship for a late lunch and the welcoming warmth of our cabin.

We chose not to dine at the Golden Lobster at our usual time of 6 pm, as it was too soon after lunch. Instead, we attended the 7:15 pm performance in the theatre and, afterwards, opted for the buffet restaurant on Deck 14. The late evening entertainment schedule didn’t appeal to us, so we returned to the cabin and watched TV.

20th January 2025
On waking, we found ourselves off the coast of Belgium, not far from the unseen West Frisian Islands. The dense English Channel fog that had reduced visibility to just a hundred metres had lifted slightly, replaced by a lighter mist that allowed us to spot a coaster about a mile away, along with several large flocks of seabirds attempting to outpace the MSC Preziosa. The sea, calm and almost jelly-like, appeared grey, cold, and uninviting.

After breakfast, we visited the excursion desk to explore options for tomorrow’s port stop in Zeebrugge. We had long planned to visit Bruges, and we were fortunate to secure the last two places on a tour of this medieval city. With the next day’s activities arranged, we spent the morning in the Atrium, reading and listening to a pianist. It was far too cold on deck to contemplate burning any calories outdoors!

Lunch was enjoyed in the Golden Lobster, seated with a German couple who spoke a little English and two girls from Glasgow whose accents made their English only slightly more comprehensible. Though the conversation was challenging, everyone made an effort, and any awkward silences were mercifully interrupted by the arrival of our meals.

The afternoon began poorly with a sparsely attended presentation titled ‘The Metropolis of the English Channel’, delivered by Sharon, the cross-dressing presenter we’d encountered earlier in the week. I lasted three minutes before retreating to the cabin, where I fell asleep watching Donald Trump’s inauguration on TV. Sue returned an hour later, grumbling about Sharon’s lack of knowledge and abysmal presentation skills. I have to admire her perseverance. Sue would easily survive a hostage situation with her resilience alone!

That evening was a formal occasion, so we donned our glad rags. Unfortunately, two new guests joined our dinner table: a father and his son. The latter, despite being in his early thirties, was immature, loud, and rude, monopolising the conversation with inappropriate remarks and frequent swearing. We quickly decided we wouldn’t subject ourselves to his company again.

Before the performance of ‘Cameo’ in the Platinum Theatre, we spent the evening in one of the bars, enjoying music and observing a queue of passengers eager to have their photos taken with the captain in the Atrium.

On a day when the United States embarked on a new path under President Donald Trump, the rest of the world watched with a mixture of curiosity and trepidation.